Understanding Fabric Counts (14, 16, 18 and more)

If you’ve ever wondered what “14-count” or “18-count” really means, you’re not alone. The “count” is simply the number of stitches that fit into one inch of fabric. So, 14-count Aida has 14 little squares (stitches) per inch, 16-count has 16, and so on. The higher the number, the smaller each stitch will be, and the more detailed your finished piece can look.

Here’s a quick breakdown:

• 14-count Aida
  This is a classic choice for beginners. The holes are larger and easier to see, which makes learning new stitches much less frustrating. Your finished piece will be a bit bigger, but it’s easier on your eyes and hands.
• 16-count Aida
  Think of this as the “next step up.” The stitches are a little smaller than 14-count, so you can get more detail without things getting too tiny. It’s great if you’re comfortable with basic cross stitch and want your projects to look a bit more polished.
• 18-count Aida
  Here’s where things get finer and more detailed. The holes are smaller, and your finished design will be more compact. This can look beautiful and refined, but it may be harder to see and can be more tiring if you don’t have good lighting or strong eyesight.

You may also hear about evenweave or linen fabrics. These are usually used by more experienced stitchers who like a softer, more delicate look. The idea is the same—there’s still a “count”—but you often stitch over two threads instead of one, which changes how the stitches sit on the fabric.

The big takeaway:

• Lower count (like 14) = bigger stitches, larger finished piece, easier to see.
• Higher count (like 18) = smaller stitches, smaller finished piece, more detail.

What Needle Size Should You Use?

Choosing the right needle size is just as important as choosing your fabric. For cross stitch, you’ll usually use tapestry needles – these have a blunt tip so they slide through the holes in the fabric instead of poking new ones. The goal is for the needle to pass through the fabric easily without stretching or tearing it.

Needles are numbered in a way that feels a little backwards at first:
the higher the number, the smaller the needle. So a size 28 needle is thinner than a size 24.

Here’s a simple guideline you can follow:

• 14-count Aida → try a size 24 tapestry needle
• 16-count Aida → try a size 26 tapestry needle
• 18-count Aida → try a size 26 or 28 tapestry needle

You’ll know the needle is too big if it feels like you’re forcing it through the holes or it’s stretching the fabric. If you’re accidentally splitting the threads of the fabric or your floss a lot, the needle may be a bit too small or too sharp (double-check you’re using tapestry needles, not embroidery/sharp ones).

It’s perfectly okay to experiment. Many stitchers keep a few sizes on hand and switch if something doesn’t feel comfortable. The right needle size is the one that glides through the fabric, doesn’t damage it, and feels good in your hands.

Extra Comfort Tips for Easy Stitching

Even with the “right” fabric and needle size, comfort makes a huge difference in how much you enjoy stitching. Good lighting is one of the best gifts you can give yourself—try a bright lamp that shines directly on your work, and don’t be afraid to use a magnifier if small stitches are hard to see. Taking short breaks to stretch your hands, shoulders, and eyes will also help you stitch longer without discomfort.

If you’re working on higher-count fabrics like 16 or 18, it can help to start with a small test piece. Stitch a few rows on a scrap of the same fabric with your chosen needle and floss. If it feels too tight or hard to see, you can move down to a lower count fabric or try a slightly larger needle before you commit to a full project.

Bringing It All Together (and Choosing Your Next Project)

Now you know how fabric count affects the size and look of your finished piece, and how needle size can make stitching more comfortable. The “best” combination is the one that fits your eyes, your hands, and your personal style—there’s no one right answer for everyone. Start with what feels easy and enjoyable, and let yourself experiment as you gain confidence.

Once you’ve picked your fabric and needle, you’re ready to dive into a new pattern. Many of my designs work beautifully on 14, 16, or 18 count fabrics, and you can easily adapt the finished size using a stitch calculator. (I personally use the stitch calculator by Yarntree:  https://yarntree.com/java/xstitchcal.htm, which I enjoy not only for adaptation to stitch counts, but for picking my fabric size!)  When you’re ready for your next project, feel free to explore my patterns and choose the one that makes you excited to sit down and stitch.